A weekend away

3 12 2012

We sat by on the verandah of the somewhat dilapidated lodge on the Hunyani Hills and surveyed the countryside with binoculars. There was not much farming to be seen so Gary and Jo told me stories of previous land issues between the former white owners of the farmland below us. They were often over access and use of water – a perennial problem in Zimbabwe.

My first job after returning from my overseas backpacker stint had been in this area of  Chinhoyi, a 1.5h drive north-west of Harare on the Kariba road. It was not a happy work experience and I left when my mother became terminally ill but I did make some good friends, Gary and Jo amongst them. I love the bush there and have great memories of exploring the area, meeting the local wildlife and happy hours with my first two dogs who originated from local breeders. Kim was my first Rhodesian Ridgeback whom I got from Gary and Jo and after her came Tina and Jenni (see Dog Chronicles page). Nearly every weekend I went riding with Jo and often one of her young daughters all of whom were keen polo players. Gary represented the country at polo for many years and there are still ponies at the farm though he has retired from active playing. There were always people coming and going and the house was a vibrant, welcoming place for me – away from the stresses of a job going badly. Today it is a sad shell of its former self. The children have grown up and left (though are still in the area). There are few carpets and decorations and the garden has fallen into disrepair. The floor tiles have been mostly removed. It is now just a house, no longer a home.

Gary has lost some two-thirds of the farm to so-called A2 farmers – i.e. semi-small scale farmers who do at most little (one has done nothing for the past 10 years). He mostly co-exists and does what farming he can but a new arrival is making his life extremely difficult and Gary says he is really after his house which is why, I presume, it has been allowed to fall into disrepair. Still, it was a good break and nice to reconnect with old friends. Kharma fitted in easily too.

I spotted these 2 signs advertising worms for sale on the road near the small town of Banket (20km from Chinhoyi) en route to a popular fishing spot. Marketing skills are apparent by their absence! I hope.

Something of a marketing blunder. I hope.

50m further down the road. Not really sure what this means.

50m further down the road. Not really sure what this means.





Why did the chameleon cross the road?

13 11 2012

Stepping out!

It seems a bit early for chameleon season. Normally they only become apparent once the rains have started but this year they must be ignoring the rule book because I have seen three attempting to cross roads near my work in the past 5 days. It must be a hazardous affair; I try and avoid them when I see them but I suspect most people don’t. This one was on a quiet stretch of road on the way to work this morning so I stopped for a photo even though I only had my cell phone on me.

I have no idea why it was crossing the road – it did not look like a good decision to me as there was not a lot of cover on the right. But I did see it safely across – they can move quite fast with a bit of prodding!





Out to play

12 10 2012

I haven’t been lazy in posting to this blog – I have been out to play! Three weeks away in the real world in Europe where the cops are not on the take, the public transport is on time and the trash is picked up – mostly. Getting off the Eurostar at Gare du Nord in Paris the cigarette butts on the railway tracks were very obvious despite the announcements that it was “absolument inderdit” (definitely prohibited) to smoke in the station or on the platforms. Very French to thumb your nose at the authority a bit – like the girl with her dog on the scooter outside the Moulin Rouge where the dancers wore more makeup than clothes. It was a LOT of makeup and yes, not a lot of clothes.

It was good to get back to Annecy where I’d flown in 2004 though this time I did not have my paraglider with me so went off to the flying festival at St Hilaire to check out the trade show, flying displays and of course the masquerade though it was difficult to get close to the latter due to the crowds. Around 80,000 people attend of the 4 days that it runs – mostly day trippers from Grenoble. An amazing atmosphere.

Back in Paris it was time for the Eiffel Tower where there were no queues as it was well out of tourist season and I even saw a Rhodesian Ridgeback dog being walked there. The parisiennes really do have good taste!

Then over to London for some brief shopping (why walk when it can all be done on the internet and delivered?) and a day at the Natural History Museum. The Brits do some things very well and this is one of them. A day did not even begin to cover what was on display. And there were free talks by scientists on their area of speciality in the evening.

I have a brother in Shropshire so went up there for a week and met up with cousins and went on a day trip to nearby Chester in England (part of it is in Wales). An example of how tourism can be done well. Take a few lessons Zimbabwe!

Now I am back in the heat and the dust and the uncollected rubbish in Zimbabwe. The South African truck drivers on whom we are dependent for just about everything are on strike so it’s time to do some serious shopping. Kharma is delighted that I am back. It’s home.





The colours of spring

4 09 2012

In the high latitudes nature colours the landscape in autumn or fall as it’s known in north America. In Zimbabwe the colours come in the new leaves in spring. The msasas (Brachystegia speciformis) are the first out and they don’t last long. I have tried on numerous occasions to capture the show and failed. This last weekend I had a bit more incentive as I had done nothing about the calendar that I produce every year for my company. So packing all the equipment I headed up to the Bvumba mountains in the eastern highlands of Zim with friends to where I knew the colours were good. Unfortunately the light was poor with all the bush fires around but I think I was reasonably successful.

Pure gold leaf!

The view such as it was. There were fires everywhere which did nothing for the light quality.

This was taken on a much lower part of the Bvumba.

The magic of late afternoon light. These colours are true.

This was taken on the way up to Mutare near Macheke.

There must be worse places for a picnic!

All the leaves on the tree are the same colour at once irrespective of their age.





Do spiders go to heaven?

30 08 2012

This was not a happy spider when I found her yesterday. Look at the legs – the way they are all curled forward. They do that when the end is nigh (or are dead) and sure enough this morning, when I opened the drawer where I’d left her overnight, she was dead.

She could move a bit when I found her, legs curled, on the floor of the bathroom. I moved her into some sunlight to take the photo and she didn’t try to move off. I wondered what the problem was. Old age? Parasites? It certainly wasn’t anything that had been sprayed as nothing had. She appeared to be in her prime – zoom in and marvel at those fangs and hairy coat! I cannot think what would eat a spider around here. It’s not actually spider season right now as it’s too dry to support much in the way of insects. That will change in the rains when the bathroom becomes a favorite habitat of mosquitoes. So even if spiders don’t go to heaven my bathroom will become a heaven for those of them still around. And yes, my house is a bit of a spider haven; I rather like them!





The definition of poverty

29 08 2012

The definition of poverty varies from country to country. I have heard figures ranging from $1.25 to $3.00. The minimum wage for horticulture in Zimbabwe is $70 a month plus another $77 in allowances if the person lives off the property and has to use public transport to work (this does vary quite a bit). Of course you can pay more if you feel like it and there are stipulated job definitions and grades too. Agriculture uses a 26 working day month which means that my labour force earns around $5.65 a day so is well clear of the poverty line. This strikes me as unnecessarily complicated. I think the definition should be; can they afford to have and operate a cell phone?





The season of dust

29 08 2012

Dust dry

Dry. Dust-dry. It is the season of dust.

Blown mostly for it is the season of wind too but it also drifts. Wafts. Dust skrits and grits under the computer mouse like finger nails on a chalkboard. A patina on all horizontal and even vertical surfaces dulling the pictures in the office. Brown finger prints on the paper in the printer. Brown stains on shirt collars. Brown coagulated snot blown into the toilet paper.

Dust.

It piles on the cables under the desk discouraging pulling of electrical plugs. It is dry. Dry like the skin that scales and itches begging for moisture relief from a plastic bottle. The bush is dry too, begging desperately for rain that is still nearly three months away. It has to wait, patient and stark, stripped naked and scorched by fires that rage by day and glow at night.

Dust gathers and settles silently – day and night.

Feet no longer footfall but plopf soft in the talc dust. Paws kick up a trail of dust behind the running dog. Bicycle tyres lift a miniature upside-down waterfall of dust. It gets into the car through ageing seals, clogs air filters. It obscures the sun. It is everywhere. Insidious. Creeping.

It is the season of dust.





Winter’s parting shot

19 08 2012

Just when we thought a particularly cold winter had finally moved on it throws a parting shot. I was about to take the duvet off the bed yesterday and store it for next winter when a bitterly cold wind sprung up and it was back to wearing a fleece all day. By yesterday afternoon it had become overcast too and I didn’t even bother taking my model glider out of the Land Cruiser at the microlight club. It didn’t help that as I turned down the track to follow the runway I came across a raging veld fire that had been INTENTIONALLY lit! It was bad enough that there didn’t seem to be much purpose to it and fire guards are required by law to have been burnt by the end of June, but on a day with a really strong wind! Now that really got the bad humour going.

Of course where there is destruction there is opportunity and the herons had not wasted time getting in on the action and searching the scorched ground for rats and other animals unfortunate enough not to have escaped the fire. There were black-shouldered kites and black-breasted snake eagles also cruising hopefully above the burnt veld. I caught this heron as it cruised by no doubt looking for better “action”. It’s not a brilliant photo but I do love the way the low light has sculptured the wings and body.

A grey heron cruises past





Hope on Heroes’ Day

13 08 2012

It’s a public holiday today; Heroes’ Day when we are expected to remember the heroes who fought for Zimbabwe (against me) and are buried in Heroes’ Acre. From what I could see going into town precious few of Harare’s residents were giving the afore-mentioned heroes much thought as they participated in football clinics or just generally relaxed. It’s not that surprising – most Zimbabweans are too young to remember the war. I was on my way to a French lesson with Shelton. Half the way through there was a roar and we looked up to see a formation of 4 training jets go over on their way to the National Stadium where Bob was addressing the crowds. Shelton cynically commented (in French) that the crowds where mostly there to see the high profile football match after the ceremony.

It is true that we have little left to celebrate in Zimbabwe. The economy is in tatters and shows little sign of rejuvenation. We have extremely bad press worldwide and tourism is moribund despite the mostly friendly population and great weather. Then on the way back home I noticed a bundle of fibre optic cable casings lying on a manhole cover and thought; no, there IS still some hope! Somebody is still investing in Zimbabwe regardless of the apparently dismal future. Actually fibre optic cables have been going in all around town for at least the last 18 months but at least they are continuingto be put in.

Tech spaghetti too – I got some funny looks from passers by whilst photographing a pile of piping!

Tech Spaghetti – fibre optic cable casings





And the calf will lie down with the lion

6 08 2012

I think there’s something in the bible about a calf lying down with a lion. Whoever wrote it can’t have known much about lions or it’s a metaphor for something else. Well today I found a statue of something that I think looks a bit like a calf CROSSED with a lion (maybe THAT’S what they were doing lying down?). Or maybe it is some sort of homage to something else I have not thought of. I give up. Make up your own mind what it is. There was one “guarding” the other side of the gate to the unfinished house and there were some vaguely leonine blobs on the balustrades visible behind the gate. Money obviously doesn’t buy taste…

Guarding something