Only in Zimbabwe

13 12 2008

I’ve probably used this title before but sometimes thinking of snappy titles is a bit beyond my limited artistic skills. Whatever…

I got to the checkout till yesterday having made sure that my purchases were close to a whole number of US dollars. The alternative is to stand in another queue and get a credit note for the change which the supermarket does not have. Standing in queues is not my strong point though. I’d even picked up a packet of chewing gum in the checkout queue but there was still a bit of change. Help was at hand though and the till operator reached down and picked up a chewy bar worth the outstanding 15c – or thereabouts. No doubt she had other “denominations” at hand.

I see that between there being “no cholera” (according to Bob) and the reality of a massive outbreak we are now blaming it all on the British! Check out this link for the full report. It beggars belief that anyone, including the deputy minister involved, would actually believe this drivel but there you go; blame it on someone else no matter how daft the reasoning.





Touching the wild

9 12 2008

Some years back I shepherded a couple of young English lasses (I was a bit younger then too) around. I even took them up the Chimanimanis near the village of the same name. On asking them what they thought of Zimbabwe they commented that it was not really as wild as they thought – it was a bit too civilized. I asked if they were hoping for lions outside the back door. They said yes, sort of.

The last couple of days it has been jackals in the lands. Jenni put up a young couple of black-backed jackals yesterday and although I did not witness the chase I did see an adult sitting on a drainage culvert which it ducked into when I approached. Having lost sight of Jenni I called her and looked up to see her trotting down the road with a couple of jackals in tow. They were certainly making a show of it, yelping their eeyah! bark and were surprisingly unconcerned by my presence in the truck and even followed us to the night storage dam where Jenni likes to cool off. I didn’t have a camera on me then but this evening I went back along the same route from the other direction and sure enough Jenni put them up again. This time I spotted their den, an ant “bear” (an ant eater) hole in a drainage ditch. One ducked into the hole and Jenni gave the other a good though not totally committed chase. Eventually she got bored and came trotting back with the jackal nipping at her heals.

Jenni and the Jackal

Jenni and the Jackal

It’s not a great photo (a bit dark and a very basic camera) but you get the idea. Jackals are a bit of a concern as they are a major vector of rabies but as far as I could see this one was behaving normally if a bit brashly!





Dubious Business

9 12 2008

My cell phone provider stopped taking cheques last month – by the time they banked them they were worthless bits of paper. Now I have to buy time with cash only. There are two ways to do this; either from an on the street vendor or at a branch of the provider. I found out yesterday that the vendors are charging 50% over the face value of the cards. This is apparently because there is a “shortage”. That three vendors were vying for my business and there was no queue of customers did not seem to occur to them that this was nonsense. So today I will have to call past the local provider’s office to see if I can get some time at the real value.

There is a snag there too of course. I might well find later this week that the half hour (say) that I bought today has become 10 minutes. Not because I used the time but because the provider has devalued it! I am not at all sure of the legality of this but I know that their argument will be that how do they revalue all the pre-printed (often the provider will print vouchers at the office) cards out there with the vendors? To which my reply will be that you can programme the central computer to revalue those that have not been submitted for use. It will fall on deaf ears of course.

I suppose the reality of all this is that we are now paying vaguely realistic values on our airtime. I do know for certain that cell phone usage has plummeted so mine gets even less use than it did before!





In the news

2 12 2008

Zimbabwe is in the news. That’s nothing new of course but the coverage of the cholera outbreak is unusually intense. Apparently the health authorities in Musina just over the border in South Africa are struggling to keep up with influx of infected refugees. The BBC also reports that the deputy Health Minister has said that nobody who is ill will be turned away – the South African constitution guarantees that they will be treated. Of course they will be treated – they don’t want an outbreak in South Africa!

Just about all the government hospitals have closed here. I verified this with the nurse who took blood from me today. The Parirenyatwa which is a big teaching hospital in Harare closed 3 weeks ago and the Harare Hospital about a week before that. If you don’t have the funds to use one of the private clinics then you can always try one of the mission hospitals which are still functioning and failing that… Well, you are going to die. She shrugged philosophically. And this is all due to a lack of funds. My blood was destined to go to one of the private clinics. I drove past the Pary (as its abbreviation is known) on the way out and indeed it looked deserted. The perpetrators of this policy of deliberate neglect will probably get away with it though in my opinion they are as guilty as Slobodan Milosevic for crimes against humanity.





Solitary decisions

30 11 2008

Just before the rains start the solitary wasps go into a frenzy of nest building. Constructed of tubes of mud they paralyse prey, insert them into the nest and lay eggs on top before sealing them up. The larva feeds on the still alive prey and then emerges a few weeks later. Just about anywhere is suitable for a nest but they seem to prefer backs of curtains and tubular structures which require a bit less work. I generally tolerate them as part of living in Africa but my sense of humour does fail a bit when I discover a nest in the paper feed of my printer. This one (the larva in the photo gallery below) made the unfortunate decision to make a nest in the pipe I use to drain the emergency water tank. It nearly got away with it but someone must have nudged the tap so it leaked. I only discovered it because I needed to drain the tank to replace it with fresh water.

The blue headed lizard was also near the tank but I spotted it earlier this week. It lives in a tree by the back door along with a few others. It’s head is really that blue. Unfortunately it was at the limit of my little compact digital camera but you can get the idea.

The third photo I took yesterday whilst ferrying the lunch up Ngomukurira, a large granite dwala some 20 km to the NE of Harare for a friend’s son’s birthday outing. He and his friends had walked up with some adults so it was left to me to get the food to the top. I also gave Maria, his mother, and a guide a lift up. It really is spectacular and worth the apalling track which no doubt appeals to the 4×4 enthusiasts who frequent it. But it is one of the things I love about this country. Maria agreed with me and said that after the predictability of living in the UK she longed for the unpredictability and extremes of Africa.





Digging dirt

26 11 2008

Some facts (subject to verification):

The Marange diamond fields in the east of Zimbabwe are producing about 160 million dollars of diamonds a month. More is gem quality than first estimated and the fields are proving to be deeper than expected.

Of this about 40 million is realized on the illicit market.

There are 5 major partners – heads of the army, airforce,  police, the Reserve Bank and one other.

Most of the 40 million is going out to eastern banks, as cash.

There is a Russian delegation coming to Zimbabwe this week looking to “buy” votes in the UN General Assembly to get South Ossetia and Abkhazia recognized. Russia is one of the bigger players in the world diamond trade. They are bringing a diamond delegation with them. They might be more successful in Zimbabwe than other African states who have break-away sub-state issues (Sudan, Nigeria etc.).

Talks on the “historic power sharing deal” are going nowhere.

Join the dots.





Dropping standards

21 11 2008

A customer called in this morning to arrange payment. We agreed that I’d take 12 x 50kg bags of wheat instead of the Zimbabwe dollars. He said to take a closer look at the notes anyway; they were printed on bond paper! Apparently one has to check that they have actually been printed on both sides of the paper.

The power will be off until Monday at least as the utility won’t turn it back on until the trees have been cleared away from one of the supply lines. Fair enough but why didn’t they say so on Monday! Oh, and we had to supply them with  a new isolator too.

We employed a new labourer on Tuesday and for the first time in some years 2 other hopefuls arrived too. We didn’t take them on as things are not looking that good but it’s a change to know that work is in demand. Maybe they’d heard that WFP was halving its food aid to Zim due to a lack of contributions. On the way this morning to pick up the new employee’s belongings we went past a gathering by the road. Oh, he said, when I asked; that’s the government giving out seed maize but not with any fertilizer. I wonder if they will plant it or eat it.





Still in the dark

21 11 2008

The power has been off now for 4 and half days. The electricity utility has proven itself to be spectacularly useless so this morning I moved the contents of my deep freeze (leaving behind the 5cm of water in the bottom) to the work fridge where it hopefully won’t go off.

It’s not that they don’t know where the fault is, they are just inept and seemingly uninterested to boot. It took them 2 days to get to the fault on a cable at the bottom end of the farm. They fixed it, turned the power on, there was a big bang and 4 ha of grazing went up in smoke. Yesterday it rained so nothing happened (don’t apply for a job in the UK guys) and today they arrived at about 3 p.m. It’s raining again so who knows when they will come back.

I was buying some nitric acid this morning to acidify our irrigation water (it has not been available for a couple of months and we have paid a steep price) and chatting to the manager while I waited for the containers to be filled. The conversation followed the usual course of the disastrous economy and I asked him what he was doing about accepting US dollars. Oh, he said, we just convert it to local dollars for the books. He admitted it was an arbitrary figure. Try reading this he said and passed me a cheque for 64 quintillion dollars. That’s 64,000,000,000,000,000,000. Quite who came up with the “quintillion” or even if it is an accepted word (well MS Word dictionary seems to know it) is anyone’s guess but in Zimbabwe terms it’s worth one US dollar (using a cheque).





The rains have arrived

21 11 2008

The rains have arrived. They are about on time too. There was a storm this afternoon, more noise and wind than rain but still I can appreciate the coolness after a blistering hot start to the month. The crickets are out in force and amazingly so are the frogs. The power is off too so I am typing this by laptop battery, illuminated by LED lanterns consisting of a bank of 24 LEDs powered by a lead acid gel cell. I have 3 of them but I can see that I will have to invest in a couple more. They are not that cheap at $35 each but well worth it; there is nothing more depressing than sitting in the dark wondering when to go to bed. At least when I’m not typing a blog (it will have to wait for some power to be uploaded) I can read. I rely on Terry and Suzanne to keep me in reading material which they source in Botswana and South Africa.  I gave up my subscription to Newsweek some time back as they were all getting stolen so I do appreciate the ones they bring back together with copies of The Economist and the South African Mail & Guardian. My Scientific American, Cross Country (paragliding magazine) and National Geographic still seem to get through.

The serious publications have all been heavy on environmental/energy issues recently. It seems that South Africa’s programme of nuclear development has hit cost overruns and has fallen foul of the political upheavals there. The USA and the UK are also going the nuclear route with the UK also committed to other resources such as wind (they have a lot of it). Here in Zimbabwe we are a bit further behind. Our main source of hydro power is Kariba Dam, built in the 1960s. Shared with Zambia, there is not much further potential for development and for many years now the lake has not been at capacity. Our other main source of power is Wankie thermal station which is built on a colliery of the same name with vast potential but due to disastrous financial “policies” of the current government little maintenance has been done and now it totters along from one breakdown to the next. The rest of our power needs are imported from South Africa and Mozambique but these are restricted by our ability to pay and their own requirements. So we endure numerous load shedding cuts and like now, faults.

Any economic recovery in Zimbabwe will have to include plans for rehabilitating the power supply. Nuclear of course is way too expensive so it’s likely to be more of the same i.e. thermal and hydro. The Zambezi still has plenty of hydro potential and I believe that a number of sites have been surveyed both up and downstream of Kariba. In the 1980’s there was a major campaign on to thwart the go-ahead on construction of a dam in the Mupata Gorge downstream of the Mana Pools National Park. Mana would have been flooded and the conservationists argued that there were better sites to be exploited upstream of Kariba. It was put on hold though I suspect the reasons were financial. Solar power had huge potential in Matabeleland (not for nothing was Bulawayo nicknamed “skies” by the locals) but of course the technology is still expensive and not that efficient. So for the meantime we will continue to burn coal and contribute to global warming. Sometimes I’m glad I don’t have children; I don’t think I could ask them to inherit this mess.





Foraging made slightly easier

11 11 2008

If you have access to “real” money the foraging has actually got quite a lot easier. Prices however, have to be perused carefully as they vary from somewhat reasonable to utterly ludicrous.

Yesterday I was doing some shopping at a foreign currency registered supermarket for my maid whom I now pay in goods for at least part of her wages. Mealie meal was a fair price at $13.50 for 20kg which is comparable with the maize I bought at 50c per kg and I still had to get that milled. Oil was $5.40 including 100g of salt as a “value hamper” but sugar was over the top so I got that from my “South African goods-out-of-the-lounge” supplier who was much more reasonable. Coffee (for me) was a stupid price at $13.40 for 250g (get real, I got Costa Rican coffee in Gatwick Airport at £1.20 for the same amount a few years back) so I phoned up the supplier of my favourite local coffee and got 5kg for $50 which I’ll share with Suzanne who also likes it. Few supermarkets have small change so they resort to giving credit notes or you just have to buy something small to make up the difference. Two yoghurt snack bars (75c each) and a Cadbury’s Lunch Bar (40c) did it for me and besides, I needed a treat!

I got back to work later in the afternoon to find that Comrade Mapfumo (the area ZANU-PF chairman – though he could be anything he is most certainly a windbag) had been past making demands that all my staff go to a “meeting” this afternoon. I asked my foreman what it was about. Apparently there is a rumour doing the rounds that there will be new elections supervised by the UN so the ruling party is getting into gear. They haven’t started the beatings – yet. I am not at all sure that there is any substance to this but I guess we will find out in time. Nobody went to the “meeting”.

The pictures below have been doing the rounds of the email. The toilet photo was apparently taken in the South African customs at Beit Bridge.

NoZim

No Shoplifting

No Shoplifting

The toilet paper photo is being polite. Zim dollars are no good for toilet paper anyway (been there done that) and anyway, on Friday last week the cheque rate to the US dollar was 40 trillion to one! Cash is not quite so daft at 25,0000 to 1 US dollar.