HIFA Diaries – day 5

6 05 2007

First off was the South African Ballet Company who did a repertoire of well, everything. Classical, jazz, even Bonny Tyler. Witty and stylish but I rather missed the full stage spectacle of dancers as everything, except the last piece, was just two at a time. They did rather slip up by not having an encore. Hey guys, when we give you a standing ovation, you give us an encore! Still, I did enjoy the perfect bodies (female) and I do admire how they move, something I will never do of course.

There was more dance in the evening with the Germany based Wee Dance Company. All contemporary this time and no, I did not understand it. Very clever using giant cardboard boxes as props and doing some pretty neat acrobatics on them. Maybe the goldfish that observed everything from its lit bowl stage front right had a better idea. I do admire the creative people who think of these things.

I then went on to the social centre of things in the centre of Harare to meet with Hannah and some of her friends. We were chatting in the Green Room that I mentioned earlier. Well, chatting was a bit of an under-exaggeration, it was closer to shouting. Crowds everywhere and an improvised rap group next to us who were very bad but equally entertaining. It is apparently a requirement to nod one’s head and left shoulder into the centre of the group whilst wringing one’s hands and reciting unrehearsed, unrhyming and just generally bad lyrics. They seemed to be enjoying it. We scored some tickets to a DJ something-or-other which I was pretty sure was not going to be my thing. Hannah insisted that we go along for half an hour or so. Loud, very loud even from 70m away and not what I’d call music, but there were plenty of youngsters who seemed to be enjoying it. It certainly was not art so how it came to be under the banner of HIFA I’m not sure – entertainment maybe? There is a hotel, the Monomotapa, which overlooks the main stage area and is where most of the artistes stay. I expect that the music is probably not too much of an irritant (the speakers are quite directional) but there were some VERY bright lights displaying on the front and I would defy anyone to have slept through that.

HIFA has a policy of using “street kids” as security guards on the car parks. I put that in quotes as I’m not sure that some are not school kids cashing in on rather lucrative week of hanging around and getting drunk. You are not obliged to give them anything and I have never had any hassles. However, one had made the error of leaving his jacket on Hannah’s vehicle. Hannah wanted to know why. She wasn’t cross, she just wanted a reason. Hannah, is tall (there are not many women that I don’t have to look down to and at 1.83m Hannah is one), German, and very attractive and like a number of Germans I know she can be very determined. She was going to get an answer, a reason and NOT an apology – that just did not cut the mustard and this kid was NOT getting off with an apology. Poor kid, I even started to feel a bit sorry for him but it is a familiar situation for me. You just want to know why something was/was not done and all you can get is a “sorry” or even just silence. In the end even Hannah had to admit defeat.





HIFA Diaries – day 4

5 05 2007

Well, we’re into the final straight with only two days left. Friday for me was relatively quiet with just 2 shows. The first was Imagining Einstein by a South African actor. It was not what I expected it to be and I did not learn much but it was well researched and presented though his German accent did lapse into an Afrikaans one! It was very educational and the kids loved it though I thought he could have emphasized more just how well Einstein’s theories have lasted.

I was going to see a circus act in the afternoon but decided it was more for kids entertainment (yes, I know I have not grown up but Jenni desperately needed some exercise) so just went in to Avondale for a Spanish music and dance show, El Macareno. I suppose it was good, at least the capacity crowd thought so, but it was rather lost on me. The guitarist was certainly virtuoso and it seems one can be very large and still dance to Spanish music!

There was a curious incident on Wednesday that I did not mention earlier. I was going into an earlier show and stopped to get diesel at a filling station. We have a curious system in Zimbabwe in that one does not pay the fuel attendant in cash. You go to the office, guess how much fuel you need and then buy a voucher for that amount. I am not sure why this method exists, it might be a hold over from when we had to use suitcases of money to pay, well it’s getting back to that. Anyway, I hopelessly miscalculated and had 50 litres left over on the voucher. I said I’d get my driver to bring the other work vehicle down in the afternoon. That afternoon as I was waiting for the driver to come down, the clerk at the filling station came over and said very sorry but the police have locked our pumps and we are not allowed to sell fuel. He had no idea why, maybe they wanted to know where the fuel was coming from.  I blew a fuse then remembered that it is illegal to criticize the police (honestly!) so shut up.  There was nothing I could do about it anyway except get my money back.





HIFA Diaries – day 3

4 05 2007

Absence and Presence is a part mime part spoken word play about the death of the artist’s father whose body lay for 10 days before being discovered. It’s not a happy piece of work but it was superbly presented. I am looking forward to the next work by the same artist which is a mime based on the Apollo 11 mission.Ludemann gets going Hans Ludemann of Trio Ivoire did his own solo piano gig which was great and I even bought the CD. True to jazz form he did all sorts of trick damping the piano strings to get interesting effects. Probably the highlight of the day though, was a “recital” by three French musicians, piano, flute and tenor. It started off sort of ordinary and quickly became excellent with just the right amount of fun and humour. We all had so much fun that they went on for three encores! In the evening I was sitting in the Green Room, an “exclusive” bar and cafe area for those of us who’d become HIFA amigas (i.e. bought a membership early on) and for the artistes. I had got chatting to the dancer who’d done the Echo in the Dark dance and at last begun to understand what she did when Kerry, who runs the coffee shop there asked me if I wanted a free ticket to Luva, the singer from the Cape Verde Islands who was up next. Hey, bonus! I’d never heard of her before this but it was a great concert; good band, good sound and lights. The music is a fusion of African, Brazilian and other European influences and as one would expect with all that Latin input – fun!





HIFA Diaries – day 2

3 05 2007

I bumped into Maria Wilson yesterday afternoon inbetween taking in shows. She’s the executive director and this is a seriously stressful week for her but she still had time for a chat. I mentioned the topless dancer in Echo in the Dark and she said – So she only went topless? That style of dance is supposed to be done nude, someone must have persuaded her to keep some clothes on.

Well, yesterday for me was another cracker – apart from nearly getting run over in the street for the second time! First off was a piano accordion recital by a Norwegian (Geir Draugsvoll) and a Scot (James Crabb). It was a bit of an experiment for me, never having heard classical music performed on what I’d normally call a folk music instrument. These were no ordinary accordions! They had buttons on the right hand instead of keys, more keys on the left hand, more buttons above the right keyboard and even buttons used by the chin! Incredible. They simulated a full church organ and the Mussorgsky “Pictures” was breathtaking. Next up was Trio IvoiretrioIvoirethree jazz musicians; a pianist, drummer and another instrument a bit like a marimba but with what looked like gourds for sound chambers. Great fun! I even bought an on site CD and still liked it (they don’t usually live up to memories of the live performance). Finally I scored a ticket to the opera from my friend Caro who is an art teacher at a local private school. I am not normally an opera fan – I find the sopranos a bit “screechy” but this was laid back stuff – popular arias and songs and easy to take. Just for fun they sprung an unknown piece on the performers for the encore. This was ABBA’s “Dancing Queen” which even the world’s highest trained sang badly (but with considerable gusto). I was supposed to have attended the Red Pennant Dance Group in the morning, a Chinese dance group, but I managed to confuse the ending time with the start time! They are on again today but most tickets have sold out long ago. C’est la vie.





HIFA Diaries – day 1

2 05 2007

Well HIFA is off to a great start! I saw 4 shows and they were all great which means if any of these comes your way, go and see it! First off was a Dutch folk/gypsy music group called Tsigane. Apparently it was founded in 1910 and consists of a large group of amateur musicians (mostly students) who play at various functions but this was their first real concert. Hey these guys are GOOD and what’s more they obviously love their music! When You Stand Alone is a Canadian production that won an award at the fringe of the San Francisco Art Festival in 2005. A one man show, the actor metamorphoses from geeky Beatles fan, to sad housewife to angry punk. The acting is extraordinary. He even got tears into his eyes on stage! O Duo are a couple of young British percussionists who are world class performers and witty to boot. This will be the highlight of HIFA for me – and I have still got 5 days to go! Echo In The Dark was another one person performance. An exquisitely executed performance by a female dancer it had an African theme, most of which I did not understand but I did appreciate the dancing. She was accompanied by another woman who made her own wind instruments. Slides of African scenes were projected on a screen behind the performer and yes, sometimes I could see the connection. Some of it was a bit unsettling. For the last 20 minutes of the performance she wore only a skin bikini bottom – quite risque for Zimbabwe arts but it was in context. The opening show, on the theme of It’s Showtime! was OK. Not quite on the standard of Las Vegas I guess but worth seeing. Oh, and only in Zimbabwe can the lead singer of a song appear in a tight dress 6 months pregnant!

There’s all sorts of arty things on offer around the place so today I’m taking my camera and will see what I can capture…





Irrigation Schemes

29 04 2007

Dave is a congenial fellow who owns a smallish irrigation supply firm in Harare. He supplies mainly the horticultural sector but does a few other things too like mini pressure systems for households which supply a domestic setup from a storage tank. He is well stocked as I remarked to which he replied yes, but now he has to try selling it. I asked about how other companies are doing (hey, this is a small place and everyone knows everyone else’s business) commenting that they must be doing OK with all the government lending schemes for farmers (on newly “acquired” farms) wanting to put in irrigated wheat over winter. I have lost track of how many of these schemes there have been but they are often announced to great fanfare in the local press and then just seem to fade until the next one is announced. The latest is entitled “Agricultural Sector Productivity Enhancement Fund” or just Aspef. Dave told me that yes, irrigation systems were moving out to the farms but in the time taken to process the application at the bank and get the money to the supplier the price had often at least doubled so little of use was getting out to where it was intended to go. So it seems that we will remain an agricultural basket case for a bit longer.

Not all recipients of Aspef money are “new” farmers. Some of the handful of white commercial farmers still farming have managed to get funds which supposedly should have made them immune to forced takeover. I see in this week’s Zimbabwe Independent that Neville Stidolph in the Karoi area has been arrested (after receiving Aspef funds) for ignoring an eviction notice. He was told by senior government officials in the area to stay put. I am not surprised and I suppose Mr Stidolph is neither but that cannot make it any easier for him to stomach.





Diplomacy

29 04 2007

Diplomacy: the art of having a working relationship with someone you don’t like (thanks to my ex-diplomat friend Terry for that one).

I have had a crash course in diplomacy this last week; dealing with a workers’ union representative. He was polite enough I suppose but I really don’t see why I had to show him how I worked out the new wages for my staff and how I worked out the back-pay (a uniquely Zimbabwean concept) for the last 6 months. Actually, that’s not quite true, I co-operated because it was the quickest way to get rid of him.  It seems that the government changed the definition of what horticulture is in January with the result that my labourers suddenly got a 100% increase as they were no longer employed under the definition of general agriculture. OK, so it’s bit complicated but just part of the daily hassle of employing in Zimbabwe. I had already been paying well over the thoroughly unrealistic wage scale for general agriculture so it did not work out to be as much as it could but I could never have got anyone to work for the official rate. So this representative of the Zimbabwe Horticulture and Allied Workers Union pitches up and promising my staff major increases in wages signs them all across from the officially registered General Agriculture Producers and Workers Union of Zimbabwe (GAPWUZ). ZHAWU is not a legally registered union with the Ministry of Labour so I am under no obligation to collect union dues (seriously, we have to collect the dues of registered unions) but they are free to recruit members. So to cut the story to a manageable length, I dealt with a loud voiced, in-your-face  “official” who reeked of old cigarettes for two days. I even had to do the calculations for him. Everything was in order and no-one was cheated and at the end of it he did actually thank me for my co-operation but it did take a lot of self control to ride it through without cracking and telling him to “go away”.  I suppose other countries have the same issues but I’d like to think that the union officials are a little more sophisticated.





Evil & Violence

23 04 2007

The latest issue of Edge is up to its usual high standard with, amongst other things, two essays; one on the decline of violence over history and the other on why good men turn evil. Both have a bearing on the Zimbabwe situation. The first, by Steven Pinker, catalogues how violence has actually declined over history, contrary to popular belief. The second is a talk with Philip Zimbardo entitled “The Heroic Imagination” in which he discusses how little we know about heroism (almost entirely unknown here) and how easily good men can turn evil in a bad situation. In the early 1970’s he conducted the now famous Stanford Prison Experiment in which a group of male students were allocated roles as either guards or prisoners in a mock jail. It was due to run 2 weeks but had to be stopped after 6 days because “prisoners” were showing signs of serious mental trauma and the guards were getting over enthusiastic – all volunteers were given a thorough psychological screening beforehand. It is a scary read but worthwhile.





It’s Showtime!

22 04 2007

So goes the slogan for this year’s HIFA (Harare International Festival of the Arts). I’m reliably informed that it is the biggest international arts festival in Africa and this year I can believe the hype! I have been attending regularly for the past three years and this year I must admit the line up is as large as it is impressive, i.e. huge! It is held in the first week of May so I have over-committed myself to six days of top class entertainment, but at least my boss approves (that’s me).
I know the husband of the executive director, Maria Wilson, so I do get some of the inside information of behind scenes going on. Maria is very entertaining at the best of times but with a few glasses of wine she becomes hilarious. I guess it is just what goes on at any arts orientated function but to those of us educated in the austere world of science, it sounds almost scandalous; admittedly delightfully so. Anyway, as I was perusing the programme and what to watch and getting a serious case of want to see “wantitis”, I noticed that under the list of acknowledgements was the Zimbabwe Board of Censors. I kid you not. I do know that EVERY script (classical music included) must be submitted to the Board for approval. I am sure the emphasis is on politics as last year we got “The Vagina Monologues” which is quite sexually explicit (I believe). This year the renowned South African satirist, Pieter Dirk  Uys wanted to come and perform but refused point blank to remove any skits on Bob. So he was declined an invite. I guess we are not getting Spitting Image any time soon!





The owl is back

15 04 2007

I don’t know if it is the same barn owl that I “rescued” in “Rats, bees & barn owls” but there is definitely another barn owl in the chimney this morning. Chimney owlThere was the usual metallic scuffling sound and as usual I thought it was a rat or lizard somewhere. Closer inspection of the fireplace revealed a tell-tale feather and all became clear. Remove the draught control, get stung by the resident bees three times and wait for the owl to appear. Well, I might have to wait for night fall for that as “he” shows no inclination to come down now. How he survives getting past a well established bee hive is beyond my understanding. Anyway, I have taken advantage of digital wizardry to get proof of the situation though it took several attempts.

I was wrong; it is 13h00 and the owl has just come down the chimney and been successfully released! I was fortunately at my desk in the dining room when the scrabbling intensified and I looked into the lounge to see the owl winging across the floor (at about 30 cm up) and it landed just behind my chair. Incredibly it looked up at me for about 15 seconds with inscrutable black eyes – I would like to think it was saying thank you but I know that is rather fanciful. My camera was on the desk but I knew that if I moved the owl would be gone so I just savoured the moment before it took off down the passage and into the first bedroom. At the windowIt quickly got trapped behind bags of dog food but careful removal and it was back at the window again where I easily picked it up by the shoulders and released it outside. It touched briefly on the verandah before getting its bearings and winged low and silently across the lawn to a group of trees. I will still be smiling tonight!