The dirty state

7 07 2011

I returned from a week long visit to South Africa recently and unusually chose to drive to Jo’burg and back. Well, I was expecting to buy all sorts of things for the business and myself that would not fit in a suitcase.

I last drove to South Africa in 2009 before the start of the World Cup when frenzied preparations were being undertaken. I mainly saw the effect of all this on the road system and in places the going was tedious. This time the benefits were obvious; the roads in South Africa are probably the best I have driven on anywhere in the world! Zimbabwean roads are by any standard, appalling. Though there were no vehicle dismembering potholes (maybe the tolls ARE going somewhere useful) there were sections so undulating that 80km/h was a prudent speed. South African roads are also tolled and cost anything from $1.50 to $5 but it seems that the tolls do go into road maintenance – the toll roads are privately run. Under South African law there has to be an alternative route to the toll road which is not the case in Zimbabwe.

My impression of the South African economy is that it is robust. The Clearwater shopping centre in Roodepoort in south-western Jo’burg has changed markedly since I was last there last September. It’s bustling with shoppers too. Of course this is in direct contrast to the Zimbabwe economy which, according to the Economist, is the second worst performing in the world. Haiti is the worst. And what’s more they are advertising credit cards on the radio! I find it difficult to believe in the face of all this that the South African economy is doomed as is a commonly expressed opinion amongst whites (especially). Yes, South Africa does have its problems. Whilst I was there COSATU (Congress of South African Trade Unions) was effectively calling for a communist state (uncompensated take over of private business and land a la Zimbabwe) and being highly critical of the status quo and they were being taken seriously enough that the CEO of Anglo American (a very large and powerful multinational based in South Africa) was weighing-in and rallying commerce against this threat but it has since emerged that COSATU had no economic plan of their own.

And South Africa is clean. Zimbabwe is littered with plastic bags by the road and also the occasional dead donkey or cow killed by the heavy transport. The joke used to be that the plastic bag was the national flower of South Africa but it seems that this situation might have reversed and Zimbabwe is now the dirtier of the two neigbouring states. Crime however, always a bane of the southern neighbour, has not improved. Staying with friends near Hartebeespoort Dam north-west of Jo’burg was an exercise in alarms and infra-red beams at night and they’d had two attempts to break in in the last month and were expecting another. Of course this happens here too but not to this extent and seldom during the day. Zimbabwe officials are much more friendly too. I didn’t come across a single toll collector on the roads who didn’t want to have a chat. Customs officials too were friendly unlike their South African counterparts. But yes, the South African border was more efficient!





The garlic won’t grow

25 06 2011

Garlic is grown from the cloves and the bigger the cloves the better the result. There has been some really nice garlic in the supermarkets this year and it’s about the only thing the birds don’t attack in my veggie garden so I was keen to give it a try. It all rotted in the ground. So when Steve mentioned that he was growing garlic I asked how he got it to germinate.
“The stuff coming in from China is all irradiated before it gets to South Africa” he laughed. “I don’t know if it is done to kill any pests or to protect the South African market” he added. Oh well, I won’t bother trying again the. At least it tastes pretty good!





No trains past here anymore

23 06 2011

I’d stopped just off the main Mutare road on Monday on my way back from a weekend in Mutare to investigate where the gearbox oil was coming from that I’d noticed on the back window of the Landcruiser. While I was checking out the leak on the differential seal a pickup truck stopped and and oldish guy with a strong Afrikaans accent asked if I was OK.

We got chatting and I mentioned that I was surprised that there were any white farmers left in the area.
“Ja, but there are not many of us left now” he said. “I went to John Cowie School here” he continued. (This is a junior school in the nearby town of Rusape.) “I was a sporty type” he continued, warming to the subject. “One year I won the 100 yards, the 220 yards, the high jump and the long jump. And there was this big cake too you know. It was the prize for whoever won the pellet-gun shooting and I won that too! So they decided I should got to school in South Africa. Three days and two nights it was on the train to Bloemfontein” he continued. He paused for a moment and then said “But we don’t see the trains come past here anymore”.

We chatted on for a bit about people we knew and I introduced him to Kharma and we discussed dogs for a while. “Hey, just remember I live just around the corner if you need any help” he said on parting. His pickup truck rattled and bounced off down the road and I got back to the oil leak.





Chancers

23 06 2011

A note arrived on my desk last week. There were two columns listing the prices of basic commodities such as maize meal, salt, sugar, cooking oil, rent and flour under the headings of “Old price” and “New price”. Apparently prices have gone up some 20% though over what period it did not say. It is no co-incidence that today is wage day and without actually saying it, this was a request for an increase. There was a wage increase in February of 28% so I was more than a bit annoyed and some of the supposed prices listed looked more than a bit hight to me. Shopping is not one of my fortes but I am aware of what prices are so decided to check them out.

I called into a local supermarket on the way back from town and after checking around found that current costs of the listed commodities were actually LESS than those listed on the “Old price” column! When I mentioned this I was told yes, but these prices are for the supermarket where we live. Well in that case it is worth getting on the bus and going into town. I will see later today if there is another request for a meeting with the labour to discuss this.

Earlier this week another chancer arrived at the office. Smartly dressed, he waited politely at the door while I was on the phone. I glanced at the government letterhead on the paper but did not take much in except that it there was something about “Anti Sanctions Music” and they were looking for money. I suppose I should have perused it a bit closer but I couldn’t be bothered. When I asked incredulously what “Anti Sanctions Music” was I was told it was just that; they wanted to make music against the targeted sanctions imposed on various individuals and organizations in Zimbabwe. The cheek of it; they wanted me to give the government (or whomever it was) money so that they could make protest songs! I told him I wasn’t into that type of money and handed the letter back.





The solar (dis)advantage

9 06 2011

There is something appealing to being able to generate one’s own electricity – especially in Zimbabwe where I thoroughly resent the attitude of the supply authority, ZESA, who seems to turn off the power at a whim and shows precious little interest in upgrading the grid. So it was with more than a passing interest that I asked about the solar panels at my local electrical hardware outlet this afternoon.

The largest costs US$750 and puts out 150W.
In Zimbabwe we pay around 10c a unit (kWh) for our supplied electricity. $750 would thus buy 7500 units.
The solar panel could theoretically put out 1.35 units a day (8 hours of usable sunshine x 150W).
It would take 6944 days at this rate to equal the 7500 units of ZESA supplied power. This is assuming an 80% efficiency conversion to mains power through a battery and inverter; which might be optimistic. (I don’t know if the panel requires full sunshine incident at 90 degrees to generate the 150W).
Now the salesman said the lifetime of the panel should be around 25 years. 6944 days is 19.29 years if the sun shines for 8h every day which of course it doesn’t. Nor have I included the price of a deep cycle battery (around $200) or the inverter (about $150). Do that and the payback period jumps to 28.29 years. And the battery will need to be replaced at least every 5 years! Factor in the replacement batteries and it would take around 49 years to pay back the investment to the equivalent of $750 of the grid electricity.

Why bother?





Universal language

28 05 2011

They say that sex is a universal language. I guess it must be with the world population knocking at the door of 7 billion but in Zimbabwe one cannot go far wrong with music. I have recently finished constructing a music amplifier for my Landcruiser through which I play my MP3 player. I have to admit I’m still at the “enamoured” stage and cannot resist showing it off and yes, honestly, it IS good!

This afternoon when I stopped at a traffic light, one of the ubiquitous newspaper vendors commented to me; “Nice music sah!”  “Yes” I responded, “we all need good music” and we both jived along a bit to Starship’s “Nothing’s going to stop us now” until the lights changed.





Standing their ground

20 05 2011

Austin was chatting to a nun recently who teaches at a mission school in Manicaland. She recounted an interesting story from the time when various ZANU-PF lackies were doing the rounds getting signatures for our Honourable President’s campaign against the “illegal sanctions” commonly described as being imposed against Zimbabwe and the cause of all our economic problems, but they are actually targeted against him and various other senior unsavories. Groups of heavies even hung out in car parks in town here and intimidated shoppers into signing the petition.

They arrived one day at the school and demanded that the students be gathered so that they could address them. The staff and students duly gathered and the address started. It did not get far before the senior students (secondary school age) started to jeer and mock the gatherers of signatures and then they, the students, led the walkout. There was no comeback.





State of the nation – agriculture

17 05 2011

I took a drive up to Mutare this weekend to visit Gary and June and hopefully get in a bit of paragliding as the weather was certainly looking good. It had been some time since I drove the Mutare road so I was also curious to see how much agriculture I could see. As it turned out, very little was happening or had happened in the past season. To be fair it does not pass through very good soils, most are granite derived sands which are mainly suitable for tobacco or cattle farming. There was precious little signs of either. The bush was looking good though and the grass long which does not bide well for the fire season though.

On Saturday we took a drive up into the Vumba Mountains and they are as scenic as ever.  Mostly too steep for productive agriculture the farms there have not escaped the land grab and remnants of protea lands were still just visible over the invading grass.

We never did get to fly as the wind was not co-operating at either site we went to but the views were great.

As I write this a farmer on the road into town is fighting off a “jambanja” (land grab) attempt on his farm. It is not coincidence that he has lands full of cabbages, potatoes and maize all ready to harvest.





Osama bin Laden and Barry Blumberg

3 05 2011

You have heard of Osama bin Laden and his recent demise. Who hasn’t? In fact I have turned off the radio for the meantime as I am tired of the incessant analyses and reports and interviews of 9/11 relatives. Bin Laden is gone and good riddance but al Kaeda is still alive and will very likely kick back somewhere soon. But wait. Who is Barry Blumberg? Well, I should say who WAS Barry Blumberg as he died on April the 5th with very little fanfare. He discovered the hepatitus B virus and then developed a vaccine (with his team) and when it got little support from the pharmaceutical companies he gave out reagent kits and copies of his patent to any who wanted. Unlike bin Laden there is no estimate of how many lives his work SAVED but it was a considerable amount. Sadly bin Laden will go down in history but here’s my small contribution to Barry Blumberg and his ilk.





Harare International Festival of the Arts (HIFA) 2011

28 04 2011

As I write this HIFA 2011 is in the closing phase (please see the page on the right for a gallery of photos). The final HIFAlutin (get the pun?) newssheet was produced last night so I am no longer required to take photos and though I have a pass to get into anything there was nothing in the programme for today that I thought warranted a trip into town. As a photographer I was required to take photos of shows that the editorial staff wanted to cover; either a special interest or something that needed coverage to sell a few more tickets so quite a lot of it I would not have attended out of choice. But that’s OK, I got exposure to some interesting stuff and I got some nice photos – well I think so!

So today has been a slow day. I even had to go grocery shopping as I’d done nothing during the week. I abhor shopping at the best of times so it really was a drag to do on a day off but well, the cupboard was bare. Kharma watched me with some trepidation – poor girl, she’s a real person dog and hated being left alone all day and well into the night while I was at the Festival. She leaped into the back of the ‘Cruiser with alacrity and kept guard whilst I did the shopping.

“Hello Sir!” says an opportunistic vendor looking for an opening to sell me somthing.

“Hello and no thanks I don’t want, knives, or steering wheel covers, or brushes, or my car painted, or mats, or superglue or padlocks. In fact I don’t want ANYTHING! You could GIVE me what you are trying to sell me and I would give it back to you!”

Silence.

“That’s a big dog you have.”

“Yes it is a VERY big dog.”

“What’s it’s name?”

“It’s name is BITE and it wants to bite you!”

“Ah!” He takes a step back and turns away. I grin at the accomplice who can see I am joking. He smiles but says nothing.

It’s a rathy tatty supermarket and not my first choice but today is Africa Day and the other one was closed. I cut short my shopping list when I walk past the meat counter and am assailed by a rather meaty sort of smell. I grab three newspapers at the till to read on the way out.

There are no real Sunday papers in the tradition of the UK. The Sunday papers there took a full week to read, they were so full of information. In fact the three papers I have picked up are weeklies – the Zimbabwe Independent, The Standard and The Financial Gazette. It’s just the same old news from slightly different perspectives. The political impasse in the country is dominant and I have no trouble in getting through them all in half an hour – I need newspapers to clean windows and light fires. There is one piece on the HIFA opening show that got a few of the senior organizers arrested and released without charge and the police apparently denying that anything happened at all. The rest of the coverage of the Festival is minimal. A page is dedicated to the day’s programme and highlights but the photos are small and of little interest.

HIFA is much more than an annual Festival. There are lots of outreach programmes and skills exchange which culminate in the Festival. And the Festival is much more than that – there are lots of workshops and master classes on the go too. It will take a few weeks to clean up in all senses of the word, the permanent staff take a break and then it starts all over again.