The respect thing

24 04 2010

Last year my nursery supplied some 40,000 seedlings to the informal street market – we were not paid. It’s most usually the security guards at the heart of the theft. We got most of the trays back but the evidence as seedlings was long gone and no arrests were ever made.

Earlier in March I was on the way to the airport with Sybille when I got a text from the senior foreman saying that another 12 trays of onions had gone missing. There was little I could do at that stage but when I got back from surgery and another theft, onions again but now 22 trays, occurred I put the suspected guard in the truck and left him at the local police station to be “interviewed”. A few days later I asked the investigating constable if anything had happened. She asked me if there was any evidence left!

I recounted this story to Charles a black manager on the farm where I live and asked what he did. He laughed. They’d had a similar problem with the security guards on the potatoes so he took them off to the police station for a night’s stay and a good hiding (his words) and warned them if there was any more nonsense they’d go back for another hiding. I commented that as a white I would not get away with that (and I have to admit I’m a bit squeamish about it). I repeated the story to a white farmer that afternoon and he said that while he would not do anything himself he just gives the police a bag of potatoes and they do the dirty business.

Some years ago I was working in Malawi for UNDP and was astounded when one of my highly educated black colleagues told me that she didn’t think Africa was well suited to democracy. I had to admit that after giving a bit of thought I was not so sure she was wrong. It is no secret that Africans respect the “strong man” which, unlike the conclusion of the “Witness” BBC podcast on the Zimbabwe independence and “liberation war” I listened to, is the reason why Bob is still in charge.





30 years and not a lot to show

16 04 2010

It took me a moment to realize why a jet should be flying low over my work this morning. It, yes only one, was practising for the Independence Day Celebrations on Monday. I suppose I should look up my notes for a year ago but really I couldn’t be bothered – I think there may have been 3 jets then. Whatever, 30 years down the line we are broke, importing just about everything from South Africa or China and the fat cats are stealing the place blind as fast as ever despite continuous “calls for sanctions to be removed”. I really don’t believe they even believe it themselves!

Nobody has been around begging for donations for the celebrations – yet. They will get short shrift from me. No doubt the masses will be coerced and forced onto busses to go and hear Comrade Bob spout the usual and the government media will fawn and exaggerate the numbers and the rest of us will take the day off. Maybe the Chinese will listen; after all he did go and celebrate his birthday this year at the Chinese Embassy!





Els

5 04 2010

Now in her 74th year, Els is still a strikingly good looking woman. By her own admission she likes to talk but I suspected that she was also lonely and she’d certainly had an interesting life so I just sat back and listened. I’d taken a small present of a digital camera and a wind-up torch that Sybille had left over to her riding school on Saturday and I’d nothing else to do.

In the early 1970s she came out from Holland to what was then Rhodesia to stay with a friend in the Nyanga area and at a function met her future husband. Two months later they were married and moved onto his remote farm in Nyanga North, some 35km north of the village of the same name. A thoroughly resourceful woman she set about fixing up the run down homestead and raising a family in what she described as the happiest time of her life – her children had free range of the farm and she felt very comfortable out in the bush (“…the silence, oh the silence was marvellous!”).

My father and mother met in the same area also having come out from Europe (though some 20 years previously) so we enjoyed chatting about some of the characters in the area though they were a generation earlier than me. There was Major Mac (McIllwaine) who could always be found by the fire in the reception area of Troutbeck Hotel. Legend has it that the fire has never gone out and Els remembered that he could never remember her name either. There were also the Wyrley-Birches, one of the white pioneer families of the area in whose first house running water meant the stream through the middle of the house. My father (who’d known them well) once told me that when a favourite dog died Colonel Wyrley (as he was known) would have the dog skinned and the skin put on the back of  a chair in the lounge. I didn’t believe him, my father loved to tease, but I remember a particular visit as a teenager to their house below Mt Inyangani and sure enough, there was a retriever type skin on the back of a sofa!

As the war in Rhodesia escalated Els and her family had to move off their farm and her husband got a job at the Clairmont Estate near Juliasdale, south of Nyanga village. It all went tragically wrong one afternoon and he was murdered whilst checking up on a potato spraying operation in 1979. Ignoring family pleas to move back to Holland, Els moved to Harare where she established her riding school (she’d worked  and qualified at a riding school in Holland where she’d taught the current Queen Beatrix and has a photo of the young queen on a horse) and where she still is today. She mentioned to me that her eldest son, married with children and working in Holland, was coming back to Zimbabwe as Holland was in his opinion no place to raise children – he missed the space in Zimbabwe. Els grew up in a house which had no garden and she was not allowed to keep pets. We sat on her verandah and admired the tortoise lumbering across the lawn and the 80 m or so of garden to the gate that was out of site.

Yes, despite all it’s problems Zimbabwe can still be a great place to live – if you have a reliable income! Harare probably has one of the best climates of a capital city anywhere – it is seldom more than 35 degrees C and rarely goes below 10 and then only at night. Crime by South African standards is very low, most people are very friendly and there are still fascinating people like Els to talk to!





Time off

29 03 2010

I was totally unprepared for the “aftershock” of the neck surgery in Joburg. I guess I was a little naive in thinking that after nearly 5 hours of surgery I’d be up and about in 5 days or so and ready to do a bit of easy shopping. The pain was intense and not very well managed. Nursing varied hugely from non-existent to professional which was not great for what I’m lead to believe is the top private hospital in Joburg. One thoroughly nasty little woman on hearing that I wanted some pain killers plonked them down on my bedside table with a glass of water and walked out leaving me flat on my back and unable to sit up unassisted. Another nursing aid could not understand English and had no idea how to adjust the back of the bed. Thank goodness for Moira, the hilarious Scottish physiotherapist who could not do enough for me and always had some amusing anecdote.

The surgery consisted of a 3 level cervical spine fusion and a corpectomy on the C4 vertebra. Now I am held together by a titanium plate and screws. The surgeon was pleased with how it went though on the 4th night I woke to realize that I couldn’t get my right arm off the bed and my left hand was also losing strength. Panic! The surgeon ordered another X-ray and MRI but they showed nothing untoward and my left arm recovered fast. My right is back to about 70% pre-op level so I am hopeful.

Initially I was scheduled to have the surgery done here but on advice I brought my offshore medical aid to use and had it done in Joburg. Subscribing to this medical aid some years ago has been one of my better decisions as I am not at all confident that the 79 year-old surgeon who was going to do it would have been up to the task. Not doing anything would have been disastrous eventually leading to a form of quadriplegia.





You know you are in South Africa when

10 03 2010

I had to chuckle. There below the list of things not allowed into the MRI room in the Milpark Hospital was written: “Firearms”. I guess this IS Joburg!





Financing

4 03 2010

It was not before time, I thought. Austin was looking for finance to upgrade the equipment in the gym. I couldn’t recall any new equipment being added to the circuit training selection in the 12 or so years that I’d been going to the gym and it was looking a bit dated.

Finding finance for business in Zimbabwe these days is a tricky affair. The banks are looking for extortionate rates and silly conditions for collateral. It seems the route to go is private lending. My cousin “Jumbo” was listening in on the conversation. He is a wheeler-dealer extraordinaire and knows anybody who is anyone about town. He seemed to think that one of his contacts could be tapped for a repayment rate of 1% per month which is not at all cheap when compounded but Austin had done the maths and it seemed acceptable to him. It all sounded rather dodgy to me but the gym DOES need new equipment.





Not a good day – nine stitches!

21 02 2010

“This is not a suture kit, this is really unacceptable!”
The doctor was not impressed though he did admit that “Suture kit” was written on the cover.
“Do you know what this is?” he asked me rhetorically as he replaced the kidney bowl on the shelf. “It’s a vaginal exam kit”. That had me in stitches (excuse the pun) for the next couple of minutes.

I’d got to the nursery that morning to find that despite or because of the two security guards, we’d had 30 trays of seedlings stolen the previous night. On hearing that his 20 dollar bonus was not going to be forthcoming one of the security guards resigned there and then. There was no power either so I went off in search of some rat poison and paint brushes.

I had to settle for extortionately priced paintbrushes. The rat poison was in paper sachets under a brand name I did not recognize. I looked closer. There was a purple triangle (very toxic contents) and the active ingredient was “aicarb”. Now I’ve heard of aldicarb (trade name Temik® and the poison of choice for killing dogs in Harare – a piece of meat, a few granules of Temik® and the dog is dead in 20 minutes) which also a purple label. I quizzed the salesman but he was clueless. Aldicarb is also a purple label chemical and is supplied in granule form as a result of being covered in lime which makes it a bit safer to handle. This was in powder form and in a paper sachet. I gingerly put it down – it might have been something else entirely but I wasn’t about to find out.

I went to the swimming pool to work off my bad mood but it did not help; I just could not get going properly. I did get a bit tired though which I’ll blame for my lack of concentration at the gym. I forgot to pick up my left foot properly (yes I still have to think about walking) and went down hard. Damn, that hurt but at least there’s no blood. Oh wrong, it soon started to run from the left side of my face.  Margie, the resident physiotherapist, gave me a lift to the Michael Gelfand clinic in town where there is a 24 hour emergency facility. The young receptionist paused as she saw the state of my face (it WAS impressive!) so I made a facetious comment about Margie hitting me with a baseball bat. The orderly who cleaned up my face was young too. As was the nurse who gave me a tetanus injection and the other nurse who took my blood pressure and temperature. The doctor must have been in his late 20s too and had come back from a frustrating work experience year in London (didn’t like the food, the weather or the people) to a fortuitous business opening. He also has a private practice and gave me his business card as I left. I asked him if I’d have to cancel my supermodel shoot that afternoon. He said probably! I liked him and was impressed with the setup of the clinic. Perhaps this really is the start of a turnaround. The future of this country will depend on the likes of the staff at the clinic, young and ready to work hard. My generation is probably a bit long in the tooth to do much.

I repeated the baseball bat joke to the three people in the waiting room as Margie and I walked out. I added a nail to the end of the bat just for effect. It was not funny.





Musing on a view

12 02 2010

I was up early this morning, drinking coffee and enjoying the view from my verandah as the sun rose. On a clear day I have the best view in Harare – 70km to the Great Dyke in the north west where we fly paragliders on the weekend. This morning was such a morning and there was valley mist over the Mazoe Dam. The morning is the best time of day in Africa; it’s cool and fresh and the birds are about. My neighbour, Charles, has a view of vegetables and mielies (maize). He is one of the black managers on the farm where I rent my house and cannot understand why I don’t want to see mielies for a view. He is not an oddity – it is common to go past a very smart house in the suburbs and see a garden with a large patch of mielies growing. Goodness knows, the owner certainly can afford to buy the mielie meal if he wants to at a fraction of the price it costs to grow the crop – that’s why there are commercial farms that grow it (not too many left in Zimbabwe though).

The previous tenant next door was a white guy who also enjoyed the view so when Charles moved in he moved in a tractor and had his garden converted to production. I was wondering why the whites tend to enjoy the view and the blacks prefer to gaze at crops?

As European descendents us whites tend to feel secure with a view. In days gone by we could watch for the invading hordes which in the country now called England would have included Celts of various descriptions, Saxons, Angles, Jutes, Scots, Norse, Italians (Romans), French, Dutch, the odd armarda and the German airforce. And that’s just England. Invasion has been part of European history for a very long time. In Zimbabwe this has not been the case. Mzilikazi used to send impis (raiding parties) to raid the Shona for cattle and women but they were small parties and a view would not have been a lot of use, and besides, there is little water to be found on hilltops in Zimbabwe. Far more important would have been food security. Before Zimbabwe became a country (Southern Rhodesia) it was colonised by the whites but this was an “invasion” of the subtle kind and a once off affair. The grand irony here is that the Europeans introduced maize to this country and it is poorly adapted to the endemic droughts.





The Indigenisation Bill

11 02 2010

The Indigenisation Bill is due to come into force next month. All businesses worth more than US$500,000 will be required to cede 51% of their shares to indigenous shareholders. This bill was tabled and signed into law in 2008 by the ZANU-PF government and Morgan Tsvangirai has distanced himself from it saying that the MDC was never consulted (true as they were not in government then) and he is responsible for the formulation
of all Government policy by Cabinet and their implementation. The list of “suitable” indigenous shareholders will be decided by the government. This is obviously wide open to abuse and nepotism and locally is seen as just an extension of the land grab that devastated the country’s agriculture and levelled the economy. If it comes to pass it will certainly dissuade potential investors and lots of those here will certainly pull out. The tobacco companies are distinctly nervous and my grape vine tells me that Coca-Cola will disinvest.

My company is certainly safe; I estimate it is worth about 15,000 dollars! Of course we would feel the impact and an already quiet market would become unsustainable for us. I am fascinated by the definition of “indigenous”. If I recall correctly it is “Those who born before 1980 (independence) and were disadvantaged by fact of their race”. That excludes me even though I was born here. But what about those born since then which must be the majority of the population? Are they considered equals?





The upside of down

9 02 2010

Droughts are not all bad news for farming in Zimbabwe. Tobacco, for example, yields very well when stressed a bit. In fact tobacco farmers have a lot of problems when the rains are good; the crop grows too quickly and the leaf is difficult to cure. So this season some very qood quality and excellent yields are expected from those few farmers left who have the skills. Of course where there is feast the scavengers gather too. On Christmas Day a white farmer in the Rusape area (east of Harare) was kicked off his farm just as he was about to start reaping his first planting of tobacco. He won’t be the last. I suspect some will probably do ALL the work and then lose the cured crop. Especially as prices were excellent last season and expected to be even higher this year!