The shakedown

31 03 2009

“Do we understand each other?” the cop asked.
“Yes, I can understand you” I replied.
He asked the same question again, and I replied with the same answer.
He was not asking if I could understand English, he was asking if I was interested in paying a bribe. I had been stopped on the R512 that goes east across Jo’burg from the Krugersdorp highway to the western bypass or ring road.

“We need to search your car” he said, calling over a woman cop to the passenger door. He was impatient or making out that he was. The passenger door had been deadlocked so needed opening from the outside but I was not getting out to help. They eventually got it open and the woman started to rifle about in the shopping on the floor.

“What’s this?”
“An air filter”.
The male came back onto my side.
“Show me your driver’s licence”.
I did.
“But this is not a SADCC licence”.
“I know, but it is a valid Zimbabwe licence” (I happen to know that they are a different format).
“It must be a SADCC licence”.
“Well it is a Zimbabwe licence and it’s the one we are issued so if you have a problem with that take it up with the Zimbabwe government”.
This continued a bit further but I was not going to budge.
“What is this?” the woman cop asked, now rooting into the first aid kit behind the seat.
“A first aid kit” – it had the relevant writing on the bag.
“What is that?” the male asked.
“Zimbabwe dollars”.
“Oh, so you are rich then” – another hint (there were lots of zeros on them).
“Do you want some?” I asked. “Not even any good as toilet paper” but they were losing interest and I was soon on the go again. It was just your average JMPD (Johannesburg Metropolitan Police Department) shakedown.

It happened again at the South African side of the border at Beit Bridge. This time the “facilitator” actually knew me from my Hortico days (he knew the names of my co-workers there). I was a bit more receptive this time as I had something to gain from this; I definitely did NOT want to be paying duty on the camera that I’d bought in Jo’burg. I was mildly surprised that I’d been approached by a Zimbabwean on the SA side as they are not usually that forward but I was assured that “everybody knows me” and sure enough nobody even blinked that there were now 3 on a gate pass for one (it seemed that we’d picked up and “assistant”). Sure enough I was through the notoriously congested Zimbabwe side and out into the Beitbridge dust and heat in all of 15 minutes. A bit poorer for sure too but, in my books at least, worth it. I guess I am a real African!

Evening sky looking north

Evening sky looking north

This is the view from my verandah last night. Notice all the city lights (just joking, there aren’t any).





Reflections

29 03 2009

Well, I’m back in the land of little (as opposed to plenty) and as usual the difference was evident on crossing the Zimbabwe border – very little traffic. It was very evident in all the roadworks in South Africa that they are gearing up for next year’s World Cup and of course there was a price to pay in all the delays. However it was a good trip and I was having mixed feelings on getting home to all the usual stresses though Jenni made it very clear that she had missed me! I went into work this morning and was pleased to find that there had been no obvious foul-ups in my absence; it’s the classic mistake of running one’s own company to think that no-one else can do it and therefore one should never go away. Chances are that nothing will go wrong!





Civilization – sort of

17 03 2009

Well at least the internet works. I am sitting in the “porch” area of Gillian’s house, not far out of Groblersdal in Mpumalanga province of South Africa. I took it easy getting here, stopping off at a guest house outside Louis Trichardt last night.  I think I have got to the age now where I can take my time getting to places and don’t have to tear around getting to places quickly in order to save money – old habits die hard.

For the first time in a while fuel was easily available on the Zimbabwe side. The road was not in great condition though and the last 50km were littered with people, goats, cattle and donkeys which made for tedious driving. The contrast on the SA side was stark; clean, well maintained roads and no animal obstacles. Getting used to SA prices is still an ongoing process though – my entire bill for the whole night was R520. Was it a lot? Convert to US dollars – $52, OK that’s a bit better!

Buying a cellphone sim card is simplicity itself; as it is in most civilized places but getting it to work took 4 hours. Oh, well, we ARE still in Africa!





Getting legal

5 03 2009

Part of the requirement of being allowed to trade in real money is a FCA (foreign currency account) at one’s local bank. I did that just now and it was surprisingly easy and in theory I can get a REAL VISA CARD!!! which will actually work anywhere. There is a cost of course; the Reserve Bank deducts 5% of any deposits (and yes, ALL cash has to be deposited – right) and there are bank charges but Joyce told me there were not that many. We’ll wait and see on that one. The Reserve Bank has plundered these FCAs in the past so I am not too keen on depositing all my takings, just yet.

I heard this morning that Barack Obama has renewed the sanctions against Zimbabwe (targeting individuals and their companies) for another year. I could not help but notice the new Landcruiser on the way to the cafe this morning. It seems that Toyota has found a way “around” the sanctions along with Benz, BMW, etc…





Getting legal

5 03 2009

Part of the requirement of being allowed to trade in real money is a FCA (foreign currency account) at one’s local bank. I did that just now and it was surprisingly easy and in theory I can get a REAL VISA CARD!!! which will actually work anywhere. There is a cost of course; the Reserve Bank deducts 5% of any deposits (and yes, ALL cash has to be deposited – right) and there are bank charges but Joyce told me there were not that many. We’ll wait and see on that one. The Reserve Bank has plundered these FCAs in the past so I am not too keen on depositing all my takings, just yet.

I heard this morning that Barack Obama has renewed the sanctions against Zimbabwe (targeting individuals and their companies) for another year. I could not help but notice the new Landcruiser on the way to the cafe this morning. It seems that Toyota has found a way “around” the sanctions along with Benz, BMW, etc…





Excess

2 03 2009

Bob’s official birthday party took place on the weekend at Chinhoyi, a small agricultural town an hour along the Kariba/Zambia road from Harare. According to the Zimbabwe Independent the whole thing was expected to cost some 200,000 US dollars and included, amongst other things, champagne, lobsters, prawns, caviar and croissants. Talk about pearls before swine. There was none of the traditional fare of meat and sadza (cooked maize meal). I knew there was not a food crisis in Zimbabwe.