Unity Day

22 12 2006

Well, Unity Day is nearly over for another year. It is not nearly as traumatic as Christmas Day with all it’s obligations and it is a public holiday so I suppose it has that in its favour too. Why we need a public holiday this close to Christmas is anyone’s guess – it really is a hassle to organize staff to come in to water seedlings at this time of year anyway. Unity Day’s origins are as obscure as they are dubious. We are apparently celebrating the end of the civil disturbances that marked the latter part of the 1980’s with substantial bloodshed in the south of Zimbabwe. It was largely an ethnic conflict between the ruling Shona and the minority Matabele (see the Wikipedia reference to Gukurahundi) but all sorts were caught up in it. The death toll probably exceeded 20000, mostly civilians massacred by the army’s N. Korean trained 5th Brigade, and at the end of it Joshua Nkomo who headed up the Matabele rebels signed a peace accord and now we are celebrating (the result of the government enquiry into the massacres was never released). Now Josh is toted as the “Father” of Zimbabwe and seen as a hero for coming to the negotiating table. The waters of history are however a lot murkier than that. Back in the days of the Rhodesian conflict when Josh headed up the ZiPRA faction, his troops were responsible for shooting down 2 Vickers Viscount civilian airliners. He was filmed for the BBC laughing about it. His “excuse” was that they were legitimate targets because there were Rhodesian military on the planes, even though they were on civilian business at the time. There were also women and children. I was at university with a girl who lost both parents on the second crash. Not quite the overweight cuddly father figure depicted on the Econet cell phone service provider billboards.

Some years ago I was staying in a backpacker hostel in the red light district of Sydney (Kings Cross). Yes, I was propositioned by a prostitute and NO, I did not take advantage of her, or pay her to be taken advantage of either. In the drawer next to my bed a previous occupant had left a letter from his mother in a farming area somewhere in Matabeleland at the time of the Gukurahundi massacres. I remember little of what she said save that she’d been talking to Father “someone” at one of the local missions and he was so looking forward to going on leave the next day and doing some fishing but that night he was murdered.

I have not noticed anyone celebrating anything vaguely nationalistic today. harare is mostly shut down anyway, most businesses are closed and staff have gone into the rural areas to visit family. They call it going “kumusha” . So I guess it was a good time for the government to allow the bakers to double the price of a “government” standard loaf of bread.

Otherwise it has been a perfect day. Incredible visibility; I could see the Great Dyke clearly 70km away. Not too hot, about 27 C. I was sitting having coffee on the verandah at 6.30 a.m. and enjoying the morning when a long crested eagle landed in a tree at the bottom of the garden about 30m away. He chose badly. It was a small branch that sagged badly so he had to move on to another better perch. They are impressive birds, large and black with a long crest of feathers on the head and big white “windows” under the wings.

The stars are very clear tonight. We are spoilt for stars in the southern hemisphere. We have the Milky Way and at the moment Orion is overhead in all its glory. Taurus is off to the west and Sirius is climbing just behind Orion. I was at a party earlier but had little in common with the people there who were only really interested in talking cycling (it was a cycling club do that my cousin organized). No-one seemed to care about the stunning sky overhead, still clearly visible despite the lights of Harare. I left early. Sometimes it is easier to be a social hermit and anyway, a friend once remarked that I have no social skills. No diplomat is Suzanne, though she is married to one!





Lessons from dogs

21 12 2006

To live in the moment. Also, honesty, loyalty, integrity. Dogs will never stab you in the back or lie to you.

Cesar Millan, “The Dog Whisperer”, on being asked by a National Geographic interviewer  what we can learn from dogs. 





The Silly Season

15 12 2006

In a country that has never seen snow and is unlikely to, it seems a little incongruous to have black men hawking faux fur lined Santa hats and children’s inflatable swimming pool Santas; overweight little round white men with rosy cheeks. But it’s the silly season so anything goes. “Season’s Greetings”, “Compliments of the Season” (what exactly does that mean?) and cards of daft looking puppies with equally daft anthropomorphic smiles wearing, you guessed it, a Santa hat. Excessive drinking and excessive eating in a country where some 80% are unemployed, the average male can expect to live to 35 or less by the time you read this and there still has not been significant rain – it is too late anyway, maize planted now will only produce a paltry harvest. Never mind. Those of us who can will and so what if the minimum wage for agricultural workers is US20c a day (or US$2.20 if you use the “official” rate)? Let them eat cake, or grass or roots or whatever pathetic bird has the misfortune to stray within range of a “rekken”. Surely they can take comfort in the knowledge that we are celebrating the birth of a man some 2000 years ago who was born around September in our calendar and almost certainly was not given gifts by long bearded white men following some star in the east (where did they come from anyway that they could travel for so long without having to swim across the Mediterranean?). OK, so maybe it was north east before that. Then one must remember that this was a virgin birth (right, so who was not paying attention in human reproduction in biology class – EVERYONE in my class was paying attention) so what is a little aberration in map reading anyway? If you pause for just a little thought you would realize that Jesus was carrying God’s DNA – imagine that, sequencing God’s DNA from a sample of the True Cross!

What the hell, it’s only a day that we have to put up with the nonsense and then we can all go back to being bitchy as hell to our nearest and not so dearest and we won’t have to feel bad about it for another year. So eat excessively, drink too much and have a hangover the next day. Don’t say I didn’t warn you. Try not to drink and drive (outside of Zimbabwe that is) – the genuinely brain dead are not a pretty sight.

AcaciaSunset2

Snow clouds building near Harare! 





Farewell irony

10 12 2006

I attended a farewell party yesterday afternoon. Farewells are depressingly common in Zimbabwe at the moment. But this one is worth mentioning as the departing couple are actually desperate to stay in Zimbabwe.

Terry and Suzanne are Canadian citizens who have been here for about 5 years; Terry was a senior diplomat with the Canadian Embassy here. He has just retired and envisaged supplementing his pension as a political risk assessor for companies wishing to invest in Zimbabwe, using the considerable political contacts he made during the course of his work. You could have been forgiven for thinking that his (and Suzanne’s) application for a work permit, after all it could only help improve Zimbabwe’s dire economic situation. He was turned down flat.

It is seldom that simple in Zimbabwe. We have to go back a few months in looking for a possible influence on the negative outcome of this application. When the  United Nations General Assembly was on, the Zim delegation was flying in from the UK and asked Canada for permission to overfly that nation. They were turned down and had to make an expensive detour. On the plane was the senior immigration officer.  The work permit application procedure require the applicant to be out the country while his/her application is being processed. This usually takes a couple of weeks but Terry had been out for two days when his application was turned down. At the time I thought it ominous but I did not express this to Terry and Suzanne who were still optimistic. Their appeal was also turned down and no reason given though an official did say to Terry that if the government were to change his application would be favourably received.

I could not help thinking yesterday how ironic this all was. Here were a couple who were desperate to stay in a country that they’d come to love, (a lot of Zimbabweans are desperate to leave) and here was I needing to leave the country that I love. I’m not sure if I have touched on this elsewhere but I should explain; I don’t WANT to go. I HAVE to go. Zimbabwe and Africa are not good places to be if you have health problems as I do. Yes, I am reasonably fit but in future years I will probably end up in a wheelchair and with no family and no properties I must go somewhere where I will be looked after. If I want to stay in Zim I need to put aside AT LEAST US$1000 per month for the next 20 years and that does not allow for emergencies, assuming that I want to retire at the normal age. That is not going to happen.  Yes, if one can earn real money and live in Zim that is first prize; but few have that option. The other option is to make a LOT of local money but agriculture, in which I am involved, is not a growth industry at the moment.

Erratum. Speaking to the better connected yesterday, I was informed that the figure of US$300m embezzled in the diamond scam was way over-inflated. Whatever, mabe it was 30m. It was still a LOT of money and you can be certain it was embezzled!





Gold Miners

7 12 2006

The illegal camp of gold panners on the boundary was moved on the other day. I reported on this blog that they hadn’t all moved off and some had made an attempt at rebuilding their shacks. No more. The police moved in on Monday and set up their camp, a smartish looking military style tent. All the shacks and inhabitants thereof were moved off. It seems that the Reserve Bank was fed up with the gold panners selling their gold on the open market at whatever price they could get which you can bet would be at least eight times the official rate (the bank rate for buying US$ is ZW$250, the black market rate is ZW$3000). My foreman tells me that the police are camped throughout the Mazowe valley below my house to enforce the issue. Methinks that the Reserve Bank should concentrate on solving the US$300m diamond embezzlement reported last week instead of chasing petty “thieves”. Curiously, the bigger the scam the less likely it is to be solved.

The Zimbabwe government has a curious desire to cut off its head to spite the body. To wit: yesterday I was buying some calcium nitrate fertilizer (amongst others) that we use to raise the seedlings in my nursery business. It is wholly imported so the price is a direct conversion to local currency using the black market rate of the day. As I was in the process of updating my costings I asked the sales clerk for all the prices on the fertilizers and chemicals that we use. Ammonium nitrate was conspicuously absent. I asked why. Oh, we are not allowed to import that one he said. I think he meant that they were not going to import a fertilizer on which the sale price is dictated by government as being sub-economic. A surprisingly large number of products have their prices set in this manner, especially those considered to be essential. Ammonium nitrate is used extensively in the growing of the maize staple crop so comes under the “essential” heading. Not surprisingly therefore, it is extremely difficult to find at the official price though it can magically appear if one indicates willingness to pay a premium. So, it seems that it is better to have no ammonium nitrate available at the official price than to have some available at any price (at least where the peasant population is concerned).





Bookish

7 12 2006

Good books are hard to come by and all books are expensive in Zimbabwe. I have spurned the temptation of satellite TV (not difficult due to the cost and repetition factor) and prefer instead to spend my evenings reading, computer programming or when the mood grabs me, gemstone faceting. Mostly I rely on a loose network of other book enthusiasts to garner good reads and when I go out the country a visit to a good bookstore is a childish must and deadly to the credit card. Good quality writing is as important as the story, and yes, I do like a good novel. That’s not to say that non-fiction does not get a look-in, it just requires a bit more research to find what I want. So, taking advantage of this internet usable connection I have through a neighbour’s business, I decided to treat myself to a birthday and Christmas present of some quality science writing. I relied heavily on the book reviews in the Scientific American to which I subscribe and it has proved a sound basis.

Yesterday I received (I could have used “got” but we were always taught to avoid it in English language classes; it was classed as being ugly though not as ugly as “gotten”) a parcel slip from the post office and was delighted today to find out that it was the books I’d ordered only two weeks ago from Amazon. Two are by Richard Dawkins; The God Delusion and The Blind Watchmaker, and the other two are The First Human by Ann Gibbons (no pun intended) and Walking Zero by Chet Raymo. Dawkins has created waves recently with his take no prisoner approach to eviscerating religion in The God Delusion and I’m already nearly 60 pages into it despite it being a slow reading type of book. I’ve also succumbed to temptation with The First Human, an account of the paleoanthropological search into the origins of humankind. Some discipline is required here as I’m already reading Evolution: The Triumph of an Idea which I must add I’ve read twice before but is an incredible book. Again, it requires slow, concentrated reading even though it is so well written that anyone sans a scientific background would understand and enjoy it.

I like to think that I live in awe of no-one. I really don’t want to meet any movie stars or chat to glitterati. I do however admire some people. I am fascinated by the artistic/creative process that allows artists and artistes to be creative in ways I could never imagine. I also admire those who commit to a cause, especially where there is little financial reward – the likes of MSF come to mind. And I would dearly love to be able to craft the written word as well as the authors of the books I have just bought!

I find it incredible that the book format has not changed significantly since Caxton’s day though I do believe that “e-books” are becoming a bit more popular. No doubt they will get more convenient; as many texts as you like on one device. But will they get them to smell the same? There is something about the smell of a new book that is so enticing!





Battles and Wars

1 12 2006

The good news: the ZANU-PF Youth League “official” was a mere driver, and after the police were contacted and then they consulted with the higher powers, he was booted out of the house he’d commandeered on the farm where I live. That battle is won but the war is far from over. Now we wait for the next fatter cat to have a go.

The not so good news: “US$300m feared lost in diamonds scam” is the front page headline on today’s Zimbabwe Independent. It has emerged that the Minerals Marketing Corporation of Zimbabwe, the sole legal trader of gems and minerals in the  country and a government body to boot, has been selling off packages of stones at around 9% of market value. The claims actually belong to a UK listed company, Africa Consolidated Resources, and are some 60km south of the border city of Mutare in the Marange area. Of course there has been other leakage in what has become a good old fashioned scramble since the government sponsored “invasion” of the claims. The senior foreman at my work comes from that area and says it is just a cholera outbreak waiting to happen. I assume it has not happened in part at least due to the late rains.

I mentioned the figure of the missing US$300m (it could buy about 6 months worth of fuel for the nation) and his response was “Do you think it was individuals or the government?” He missed my point entirely. Why was he not outraged? I was.  Have become so shell shocked as a nation that we accept the pillage of vast quantities of diamonds as the norm – just another jigsaw piece in the grand pillage puzzle? There seems to be an acceptance of the “What’s In It For Me” attitude that is so pervasive. Where have all the statesmen gone, if indeed they were ever around? Africa is haemorrhaging, and it is not at all interested in applying a tourniquet.

Yesterday the police burnt down a small squatters’ kraal (village) in the bush adjoining the entrance to the farm. Apparently it was part of a clear up of illegal gold miners operating in the Mazowe valley. There were pathetic piles of possessions outside the  blackened remains of the pole and daga structures this afternoon. A few roofs had gone back on despite the threat of a beating from the police if the people stayed there. I wonder if they know about the illegal diamond rush in Marange?

The Zimbabwe Independent is not a bad paper. One of the few “NGO” papers around (most are government controlled) it is a weekly that I quite regularly buy. No, it is not even close to the standard of the Saturday papers in the UK, but the English is sound and the reporting interesting. Paging through it this evening I noticed that we have a Women’s Affairs, Gender & Community Development minister. Now I did know that Zimbabwe has the world’s biggest cabinet so I suppose this should not have come as a surprise.  Even less of a surprise was the totally non-eventful budget presentation by the Finance Minister blaming Zimbabwe’s woes on amongst other things; “deliberate efforts to undermine our economic turnaround initiatives” – the nasty West was imposing sanctions again. Government spending of course was up.  (see www.theindependent.co.zw for further mind bending logic)